It had all the makings of a romantic comedy.
Boy meets girl on ski lift as it begins the long, dizzying ascent up the mountain.Camera pans out across breathtaking Alpine scenery. Boy summons up the courage to speak. And the girl – lets call her Jenny – breathlessly tells him: “It’s only my third day on skis and I’m still learning.” “Don’t worry”, says the boy. “I’m sure you’ll be fine. There are plenty of us to help if you need it.”
Now, at this point everything is set for Jenny to play the part of pretty damsel in distress, and I the dashing man of the hour. But, sadly, the fictional director, in my own low-budget chick flick clearly wanted to add a dollop of slapstick and dash of pathos.
For off Jenny went, racing down the mountain quicker than the Road Runner being chased by the Coyote in a Looney Tunes cartoon, hurtling over and around the bumps in scenes reminiscent of the opening titles on Ski Sunday.
Gasping for frozen breaths of Alpine air, I eventually catch up, complaining to one of our fellow skiers: “She told me she’d only just started skiing?” And, of course, at this point comes the heart-crushing punchline. “Err, that’s Jenny Jones”, he tells me, barely concealing a snigger. “She’s an Olympic snowboarder. Don’t you recognize her?”
It turns out Jenny was indeed a novice, trying out skiing for the first time since childhood during a short break from her “day job”. And I’ll give her the benefit of the doubt and say she was far too modest to tell me of her glittering success as an Olympic snowboarder whose bronze in 2014 made her the first Brit to win an Olympic medal on snow.
Snowboarders and skiers don’t always rub along too well, but upon the vast expanse of pistes to be found in French resort of Tignes there is more than enough room for both to co-exist in harmony.
Together with the linked resort of Val d’Isère, Tignes offers 300 kilometres of pistes across the area called L ‘Espace Killy, as well as some fantastic off-piste skiing. The daunting Grande Motte glacier ensures the snow in Tignes is more reliable and longer lasting than in rival resorts – so much so that early summer skiing can be found up there.
My favourite runs were off the Grande Motte, which towers 3,656 metres above sea level, and offers a challenge for all levels. Just below the summit is some of the best food too. You can dine indoors – stepping over the giant St Bernard dog on your way in – at the gourmet Le Panoramic with its fine food served beside the welcoming lure of a roaring fire.
Or, for us Brits hit by the plunging value of the pound, there is the cheaper option of the self-service cafeteria on the terrace outside. When I visited, there was chicken in a basket on offer or 9 euros, burger and chips for 14 euros or a pizza for 7 euros. A large beer was 7 euros. Hot chocolate cost 4.5 euros and large plate of chips 5 euros.
From Grand Motte, you can enjoy a winding run down through the trees to Tignes Les Brévieres, the oldest of Tignes’ villages. There, nestling alongside a river, are two restaurants – La Bouida and Les Etoiles Des Neiges – that are the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of mulled wine or a cup of tea. In Le Claret itself, the busiest après-ski bar tends to be Tom Crean’s pub – a typical “Irish” bar in front of Hotel Diva which is heaving during its two-hour happy hour.
For party animals, a more raucous stopping off point on the slopes is La Folie Douce. It has a huge bar with music cranked up to volumes that wouldn’t be out of place in Ibiza and marks the ski-pass border between Tignes and Val d’Isère,
Ski passes are available to cover both resorts. However, a cheaper option is to get a pass covering only Tignes which offers more than enough skiing for a week-long trip. It has a huge variety of ski runs for skiers of all levels, with plenty of off-piste terrain as well.
Due its 1960s apartment blocks, Tignes has never been as easy on the eye as Vald’Isère with its 17th century church. And, Tignes’ network of five villages means it is more spread out than its neighbour. But, as we approached after our three-hour coach transfer from Grenoble Airport, recent additions have softened its look since I first visited Tignes two decades ago
Among the more handsome places to stay is Mark Warner’s perfectly positioned chalet hotel called L’Ecrin. The timber-built hotel is in Val Claret – my favourite of the network of villages that make up Tignes and are branded on ski maps as “Tignes 2100”. For those looking to ease their creaking limbs after a day skiing, L’Ecrin has a great swimming pool complex with a sauna and jacuzzi.
Guests can unwind after dinner around the well-stocked bar before retiring to one of the 54 well appointed rooms the hotel that has after a recent £2.5 million makeover. Mark Warner’s smiling staff are always on hand to offer advice on anything from where to get ski lessons to which restaurant serves the best fondues.
Getting to and from the slopes and around Tignes is made easy by the excellent free bus service. Just down the road from Le Claret is Le Lac – Tignes’ original main village. It has some excellent restaurants and bars to rival Le Claret, including the cosy Jam Bar which is an ideal escape for a warming coffee or bowl of pasta.
Whether, you’re a top flight skier like Olympian Jenny Jones or an enthusiastic amateur who has as much chance of a medal as Eddie the Eagle, Tignes has something for everyone.
TIGNES FACTBOX
Typical prices for one adult at Chalet Hotel L’Ecrin in Tignes start from £859 per person (based on two people sharing) and £799 for children.
Cost includes flights (with a £35 supplement from some airports) resort transfers, accommodation, chalet board (breakfast, afternoon tea, three-course evening meal with wine, one night dine out) and evening childcare.
More information on Mark Warner’s other ski resorts is available on its website.